DAY 40 CAPE BRETON, NOVA SCOTIA FIDDLE DEE DEE

CAPE BRENTON

This magnificent island is artificially attached to mainland Nova Scotia via a bridge-the Canso Causeway. It is divided into 5  counties with a population of 147,000  and on the decline-6.8% down since the last census.  The youngins movin to the big city for fame and fortune?   In 1820 the Colony of Cape Breton merged, for the second time, with Nova Scotia.   As they say here, the second time's a charm!

During the first half of the 19th Century Cape Breton experienced an influx of Highland Scots numbering 50,000!-as a result of the Highland Clearances.  Today the descendants of the Highland Scots dominate Cape Breton Islands Culture.  This picturesque island measures 3,981 square miles composed mainly of rocky shorelines, rolling farmlands, glacial valleys, barren headlands, moutons, woods and plateaus and oh so breathtaking.  We hit the Ceilidh Trail starting up the west coast of the island.  First stop Port Hood and an evening of fun at the Celetic Center in Judique.  This area has more fiddlers, dancers, piano players and other musicians than any other part of the island, so there is tons of great Celtic Jive.


"IN ALL LIVING, HAVE MUCH FUN AND LAUGHTER.  LIFE IS TO BE ENJOYED, NOT JUST ENDURED"- Gordon B Hinckley

 

And that they do.  Cape Breton Island definitely preserves the Gaelic culture.  We had a taste of some fabulous fiddling and a touch of shenanigans.  Boca's dance partner- only 80 (we are always the same age inside!) and honey could he move!  Scottish traditions and Gaelic folklore come alive along the Ceilid ( in Gaelic meaning for a visit).  Bagpipes and fiddles galore.  They did serve liquor but so few imbibing?  Boca asked are ya sure you're of Irish decent?  Oh ya Boca, but if  yer drivin and ya blow .05 then ya go to jail.  One drink is .05?  Yup.  That'll curb the tipping the glass.  Bubba is an excellent designated .....

Pleeps' no HOBBLEDEHOY!   He  had such a great time Reelin and Rodin, bought 6 CD's of  Andrea  Beaton-the youngest generation of the extraordinarily  talented Beaton Muscial dynasty.  Pleep  met Andrea's mom at the Celtic and thought he would impress her by pure devotion.  Pleep asked Bubba if he could keep mention of  the Serbian genes on the down low while around all the hottie Gaelic Babes.  Bubba thought this was a good idea...  And of course McPleep insisted we sign him up for the Buddy McMater School of Fiddling- and the begging and pleading ensued.  And of course this would entail Pleep getting his very own. fiddle.  Can you hear him now?

DAY 39 FUN ON THE FUNDY AND THE ROAD TO CAPE BRETON

Fundy Fun 

al la Shore Halls Harbour.  So many coastal fishing villages.  Talking to Sheila the local blogger (Baxters Harbour Blog) shared with us the  recent 4 "lost at sea" local fisherman.  These commercial fishermen went out to catch using some type of a dragnet and the locals speculate it hooked on the bottom and flipped the boat.  No sign of the boat or them-only a life preserver and cooler were found.  Indeed it is a mighty treacherous profession.  We saw so  many memorials in the small towns throughout the NE and Nova Scotia testifying to a dangerous way to make a living.

 

It's all about the tides Dude.  In a few hours the boats will be floating right up to the dock.  Bocahontas continues to be enthralled with all that water in and water out movement.  Very cool.  I guess you really need to pay attention to the clock and scheule around these parts Bubba.  

Walton
Located off the Minas Basin and built in 1873 this lighthouse represents a reminder of the glorious shipping days in Walton Harbour-out of use since the 1970's now a good photo op.  Do you enjoy visiting lighthouse's?  I make Bubba stop for everyone and he is way beyond over them.  If you've seen one lighthouse you've seen 200- come on Boca enough with the light house pictures.  What do you take pictures of when you travel?  What do you do with them when you get home?  As you know Boca has many many photo albums and believes they will give her a smile and fond memories when she is rocking away in her dotage....how about you?

The highest tides on Earth occur in Nova Scotia's Minas Basin- but hey haven't we heard that claim before?  High tides occur every 12 hrs  look out here comes that Tidal Bore again.  If you walk at a calm pace it will stay on your heels!  Boca insisted that Bubala go out and demonstrate this claim.  No honey, we will be here all day doing just that.  But Bubba, I've got my SIPPY CUP and I have all day.......

And Bubba enjoyed chewing the fat with a local who also ran the Beacon Gift Shop.  They talked about hunting...lots of coyotes up this way.  Not indigenous to the are just like much of the southeast USA....they destroy young deer, bird life and mess of the local ecosystem- shoot'em boys!

WINDSOR- LAND OF THE GIANT PUMPKIN

HOWARD DILLS WORLD FAMOUS PUMPKINS

Hard to believe but not only did Pleep and Sis go pumpkin crazy in this place but so did Boca. Who knows, the next thing may be baking a Pumpkin Pie for Bubba.  But then again, maybe not.  The Dill Family Pumpkin Farm was an absolute treat and feast to the eye.  The late HD Dill is known as the pumpkin king throughout the world.  He developed the proper seeds that forged the gigantor pumpkin mania.  Indeed the grand-daddy of giant pumpkins. The present record is 1675 lbs from a family in Ontario.

 

Pleep and Sis had a ball pumpkin playing in the barn and the pumpkin patch.  He convinced the neighbor kids to skip school for a little hide and seek in the old patch.  The next thing we knew was the bus driver was blowing his horn like made with a few choice words to get on the bleep bleep bus!

Bubba's favorites....TURKS TURBAN SQUASH 

He had the idea of sending a boat load over to our boys in Afghanistan for a little target practice.  Way to be  my cleaver and patriotic Bubs.  Do you still pumpkin for Halloween?  In the midwest we used to deco up the casa and front porch with all that fall stuff....corn, gourds, squash, pumpkins and even scarecrows.  Oy.  So not happening in my Florida hood.  Are we too old? Jaded? Non plussed?  Oh yeah, we don't have a "fall" in south florida.  Duh.

You can visit the Dill farm for no charge.  Boca so misses Halloween pumpkin carving.  In south Florida your pumpkin has a shelf life of a minute after you carve it. So she has learned to decorate her pumpkins and no carving.   And can you believe they have an annual pumpkin paddling race!  Yes they carve out a hull, decorate and paddle.  How's that for getting creative with your inner pumpkin!

Diana Dill and her brother carry on the family tradition of the World of Pumpkin.  What a great place and an ever so nice family. 

DAY 38 DIGBY THEN ON TO WHALE WATCHING.....OR NOT

Kejimkujik National Park

Mixed woods, barrens and wetlands.  Lot's of hiking and bicycle riding going on.  The only inland national park in the maritimes- lots of lakes and rivers for you cannoers.  Grab one for one of the self guided tours-yeah right Bubba you head out on the Slapfoot Trail and I'm all over the old gold mine trail, looking for leftovers please.  This small but sweet park is...green.

Bubba did not appreciate all the speed bumps or the warnings about the turtles.  Kaboom- those are some big speed bumbs.  Turtle soup anyone?  If truth be told, Pleep did have a blast chasing the turtles up and down the roadways.  Shhhhh.  We don't want him excommunicated from the Canadian Park System.    Pleep 2- Turtles O.  Ewwwwwww said Sis.

DIGBY ON THE FUNDY SHORE

This region is known for it's tide buffed shores- from the worlds highest tides an dramatic coastal geology to some mad dog whale watching.  This area is an aquarium without walls- can't wait to see the 15 different whale species.  Yee ha!  Digby is a hardworking fishing town known for it's fabulous plump scallops that are the prime quarry of the town's extensive fishing fleet.  

 

The area around Digby is quite scenic and the starting spot for the scenic trip down to Long and Brier Islands- take the 2 ferries and finally Boca get's to do some whale watching.  Maybe she'll get to see a great white!  This tide thing really is amazing-boats on the water, then boats on the ground.

Pines Resort is quite lovely and we sign up for our own cottage.  How romantic Bubba.  A beautiful view of the bay and wifi in the lodge for Boca. And Boca,  did you  borrow the electric yellow socks from BIG BIRD?   And yet again with the over packing, we keep wearing whatever is found on the top layer of stuff.  "Like a band of gypsies we keep rolling down..."

Never mind if it matches.  At least 1/2 off the time it's not very soiled.  Stain, stain everywhere, a smudge of something.  This year Boca did not get the on the go/tether email as she is still hassling with Verizon (last year it was the Blackberry) re the $3000 blooper of data transfer during 4 days up and 4 days back through Canada.  No no no.  Most of the hotels have the wifi but sometimes the connections are dicey and Boca has to go stand out in the parking lot under a full moon to connect.

FUNDY SHORE

Some of the most dramatic coastal seascapes we have seen.  For thousands of years the Fundy tides have sculpted this ancient coast into dramatic cliffs and caves.  The Bay of Fundy, most known for those dramatic tides.  Want to go whale watching?  Nova Scotia is the place to do it.  A drive to the end of the spit down to Brier Island is the plan.  Known for excellent whale watching opportunities.  Boca is chomping at the bit to see these mammoth marvelous mammals.,,

 

There's the ferry Bubba, looks a bit rocky.   But what?  WHAT DO YU MEAN THE BATTERY DIED!  No No No!!!!!!!  I have waited and waited to see those dang Whales.  But Boca, no can do.  Back up the coast to "civilization" to find a place who can "fix" our battery.  Hey, didn't we just have this car serviced al la super duper maintenance right before we left?  don't they check the battery?  HELLO INFINITY...WHAT THE HEY!

So after trying the Buba method of pouring Club Soda on the battery, it did get us going but no perm fix so  off we go...you gotta know Infinity Coconut Creek will get a piece of Boca's mind for messing up the whale watching.

Just what Boca wanted to do drive all over God's green earth looking for a battery for a Q56.  Of which we haven't seen one since arriving in Nova Scotia....yeah, about those gas prices ($4 a gallon)  we did find Car Quest...hey Bubba what is all that crud on the battery.

 The car isn't 2 years old and this?  Aren't batteries supposed to last longer.  Yup.

Annapolis Valley

Nestled between the Fundy Shore on one side and the the north and south mountain ridges on the other.  Threaded with winding rivers from Digby to Windsor- lots of charming towns and villages along the way.  

A stop off at Fort Anne's Historic Site is in order.  Bubba, Pleep and Sis clamored up and down the well-preserved earthwork fortifications.  

 The cannons were very popular with this crowd.  Bubba tried to get Pleep and Sis to do some sort of re-enactment?  

The turnstile entrance to the cemetery caught Boca's eye.  What are they counting?  One at a time please?

Bubba likes to look at the headstones...who were these folks?

DAY 37 SEA, SCENE AND BE SEEN! LUNENBURG

LOVIN LUNENBURG

Hey Bubba, should we go touring, exploring or just roll over?Discovering the seafaring heritage of Nova Scotia in Lunenburg was just the spot to do so. The drive along Nova Scotia's south shore is rugged with many lighthouses and more churches.  Bubba insisted that I hang my head out the window to pick up on the Godliness and Spiritual Wind. And his hope continues to be forever for ol'Boca.

In this historic town, you have stepped back in time- with street scapes so unchanged you feel as though you've entered a centuries wide time warp. The wharves have a bunch of Cape Island boats that bring in the fish or take out the tourists for whale watching and more.

Lunenburgs colorful waterfront, narrow streets, captivating architecture and searing history have made it a UNESCO World Heritage site. Red wooden warehouses, brightly hued heritage homes and crystal blue water make the Lunenburg waterfront a jewel-toned tapestry. And as we all know the best view is from a Pub! The only complaint I have are those tiny itsy bitsy oysters....they make sashimi a bargain!  It is simply infectious, the warmth and sincerity that comes with every nod, word or wave.  One of many delightful villages in Nova Scotia.

www.explorelunenurg.ca

DAY 37 SUNDAY NOVA SCOTIA ST. VLADS AND DOWN TO PEGGY'S COVE

ST. VLADIMIR'S ORTHODOX CHURCH/HALIFAX

The parish priest, Father Vladimir (how's that for a coincidence) was up in New Foundland visiting his family but we so enjoyed the liturgy with Father Roman.  Father Roman is a visiting monk from the Hermitage of the Annunciation (about and hour or so away).  This OCA (Orthodox Church of America) parish is small but sweet.  As a matter of fact Father Roman (originally a Roman Catholic Priest from France) spoke about "while we may be small and struggling to survive, bigger isn't necessarily better".  Oh haven't we experience that at our home parish in Boca.  St. Vladimir's was founded by a small group of English an Russian- speaking individuals who wante a parish which would be non-ethnic and open to all.  The group finally decided that the Orthodox Church in America (OCA) was the most suitable jurisdiction for them.    The OCA grew out of the Patriarchal Russian Church and has continued te tradition of Russia Orthodoxy, using both English and Slavonic in its service.  The parish first met at St. Mary's University and in  1996 moved to the domestic chapel in the home of Fr. Vladimir's in Halifax.  Currently the "church" is housed in a building on the property of  St. George's Church Hall, an Anglican Church in Halifax.

We look forward to meeting Father Vladimir one day because he would be the first person I've met with a PhD in Egyptology from Hebrew University  of Jerusalem- our own Indian Jones!  Actually Father has several degrees and was tonsured as a hieromonk (priest monk in 2004).  He taught at St. Mary's for many years and is a highly respected scholar in his field.  In 2005 he retired from teaching enabling him to full time his love of God.  Additionally, the Holy Synod elevated Father Vladimir to the rank of Igumen.  Way to go Father Vladimir.  What's next!

Transmitting light through our actions:  "There are 2 ways to spread light: to be the candle or the mirror that reflects it".  Edith Wharton
Yes, the example you/me set is a way of sharing. Action being the key word.  Way to go Bubba you little glow worm!

www.halifaxorthodox.org





SO LONG HALIFAX

With its gleaming waterfront, pretty parks, and unique blend of modern and historic architecture.  Quite a romantic and fascinating small city (under 400,000)-under 1 million for all of Nova Scotia.  The city has a long history of swashbuckling legalized pirates or privateers brought captured ships to share the crown.  And speaking of "privateers" how about this boat owned by the "Tim Horton"-  you know the guy that owns those coffee shops?  Now that's some swash buckling....Bubba says Tim's coffee is a little weak in the knees.

On the other hand me thinks old  Tim  said something about you and your Tug of choice being a bit more like the bees knees Bub.  And of course I choose you and little Toot Toot over Tim and that huge gleaming hunk o hunk of burning...

SOUTHERN COAST OF NOVA SCOTIA AND PEGGY'S COVE LIGHTHOUSE
Perched atop massive granite boulders worn smooth by the pounding waves below, the Peggy's Cove lighthouse beacon as been guiding sailors and fishermen safely home since 1868.  No danger signs, no railings just pure non OSHA fun.


We had a ball climbing and slip sliding to watch the phenomenal surf break....very very cool.  This iconic spot is a must see and of course you follow up the slippery situation at the Sou'westerner with a bowl of Chowdah...who knew there were so many ways to make Chowdah.

These are waves for the brave!

www.nslps.com

DAY 36 HALIFAX NOVA SCOTIA

HALIFAX

 The capital of Nova Scotia since it's founding in 1749 with a current population of 396,000.  This area has the highest number of post-secondary institutions per capita in North America- we are talking College Mode.


At first Bubs felt a little out of place with all these young folks but hey he and Pleep checked out the Wooden Monkey and Toothy Moose  and ran into his favorite Canada Beer- Alexander Keith and it was all a ok.

And AMEN, the rain finally stopped.   I am sure it was Sis singing "The Sun Will Come Out Tomorrow" all night.  Good job Sis.  We have been lucky therefore spoiled as the vast majority of our travels we have had nice weather.  I tried to tell Mr. Grumpy Pants just because it's raining doesn't make the area any less fun or beautiful.  He never bought that idea- so today I am happy  to say Sis's wish came true and Bubba got his sunshine back.  How does the weather effect you when you are on holiday???  What do you do if there is bad weather?

We started the day watching a boat race....wow how about those colorful sails.  And Bubba so loved the Collins Court.   I knew he had some Judge and Jury in his DNA- and not in a good way.  Pleep suggested when we get back to Boca that we paint the door to the garage just like this for Bubbala.  Good idea Pleep- he can hold court out there and not in front of the TV watching Fox.

KC loved the bus - SO HIM.   Off we went on a city tour...picture perfect weather and an interesting tour.  And naturally at every stop the Bus Driver found Bubba and Pleep siting in his seat begging to relieve him for a stop or two.  Pleep had the hole bus cheering "BUBBA BUBBA".  After the third stop, I had to beg the bus driver to not kick us off the bus and give us one more chance.  Yeah, he said, I heard about the Collins from the Border Guards.  Whewww with one more chance we were on our way...the Halifax Harbour area is active and lots to see and eat!  Quite a bit of restoration of the old buildings going on as well.  Next stop...

This one had us looking up- hey Bubba what is that up on top of that building up ahead??  Snipers in Halifax?  As we got a bit closer, low and behold they were volunteers repelling down the side of a building to raise money for Easter Seals.  Yooza!  Of course Pleep needed no encouragement  and begged Bubba to give it a go.  No thanks Pleep, did enough of that craziness in the EST 6 day training 20 years ago.  I am complete and ever so  transformed.

"It's all you Pleep my man,  hop on the back of one of the brave." Of course I begged him not too but there's no telling that darn monkey anything- a Collins trait.  And yes he made it down safe and sound.  Good job for the Easter Seals Pleepster!  And remember it's Whale Watching not Whale riding......

Citadel
Next stop a National Historic Site of Canada operated by the Parks system, where Halifaxs historic role as key naval station in the British Empire is commemorated.  The music and pageantry of the kilted 78th Highlanders and the precision of the Royal Artillery bring history to life as you step back in time to 1869.  The firing of the noon gun scared Sis but Pleep couldn't get enough.  He insisted on his own kilt and was sure he would be one of the few in Boca wearing one.



Titanic Cemetery/J Dawson

Titanic- a part of Nova Scotia's unique marine history.  As we know on April 10, 1912 the Titanic left on her maiden voyage with over 2200 passengers and crew on board.  4 days later she struck an iceberg south of New Foundland.  She sank in 2 hours and 40 mis.  Just over 700 survived in life boats were rescued and taken to New York.  The White Starline Company then commissioned Canadian vessels to look for bodies in the area of the disaster- they recovered 328 Titanic victims.  Many were buried at sea but 209 bodies wee brought to Halifax and buried here.  There are 3 rows of headstones shaped like the hull of a ship .  And yes, there is Jack Dawson's.  After the movie Titanic was released (the last time) the cemetery became a popular spot with tourists.  The cemetery area for the victims was quite run down so the city refurbished the Titanic area and today it is still a big tourist attraction.

And to end a perfect day a stop off at Durty Nelly's for a pint.  Pleep couldn't resist asking the Shriner's too play Happy Birthday in honor of George Heidkamps 80th Birthday.  Of course we'll do it for ya Pleep.  Georgie Boy is well known around many parts for tipping a can or two.  I think Pleep sang the loudest.  And yes these folks are about the friendliest and most helpful we've encountered.  On a Friday at rush hour in the rain  at an intersection Keith paused the car and out of a car next to us jumps a man- OH NO BUBBA IT'S A CAR JACKING!!!- on no help.  Help? He said he could tell we were a bit lost and could he help?  And he took the time to make sure we found the right road etc.  Just like in Boca....right.  LOVIN THE SCOTIANS!